You have Bermuda in zone 7.
Your neighbor just fertilized. Should you?

Zone 3–7 · mow 2.5–3.5 in (3.0+ in summer)

Kentucky bluegrass is the iconic cool-season lawn — fine-bladed, deep emerald-blue under fertility, and the only common species that spreads aggressively by rhizome (so it self-repairs from divots and dog spots).

Zone 3–8 · mow 3–4 in

Tall fescue is the cool-season grass of the transition zone — deep-rooted, heat-tolerant for a cool-season species, and shade-tolerant.

Zone 3–7 · mow 2.5–4 in (or unmowed)

Fine fescue is the umbrella name for creeping red, chewings, hard, and sheep fescues — fine-bladed grasses that thrive in shade and infertile soil where Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue would struggle.

Zone 3–7 · mow 2.5–3.5 in

Perennial ryegrass germinates in 5–7 days — faster than any other common lawn grass — which is why it is the standard "quick green-up" component of Northern seed blends and the standard winter overseed for warm-season lawns from zone 8 south.

Zone 6–11 · mow 0.75–1.5 in (hybrids); 1.5–2.5 in (common)

Bermuda is the workhorse warm-season lawn of the South — heat-tolerant, drought-tolerant, traffic-tolerant, and aggressively self-repairing via both stolons and rhizomes.

Zone 6–10 · mow 1–2.5 in

Zoysia is the premium warm-season grass — denser, more shade-tolerant, and more cold-hardy than bermuda, but slower to establish and slower to recover from damage.

Zone 8–11 · mow 2.5–4 in

St.

Zone 7–9 · mow 1–2 in

Centipede is the "lazy lawn" of the Coastal Plain South — low-fertility, low-mow, slow-growing, light-green.

Zone 8–11 · mow 3–4 in

Bahia is a tough, drought-tolerant warm-season grass dominant on roadsides and unirrigated rural lawns through Florida and the Gulf Coast.

Zone 4–8 · mow 2–4 in (or unmowed)

Buffalo grass is the native short-grass-prairie species — the only warm-season grass that survives zone 4 winters, and the only low-input lawn grass adapted to the Great Plains.

Fertilize

Fertilizing a dormant or stressed lawn wastes product and can burn the turf. Hitting the active-growth window doubles uptake efficiency and is the single biggest lever on a homeowner's yearly schedule.

Overseed

Seed germination needs consistent soil temperature plus moisture — overseed in the wrong window and the seed dries out, gets cooked by midday sun, or rots before it sprouts.

Dethatch

Dethatching tears at the crown of the plant — the lawn has to be in active growth to recover quickly. Dethatching dormant turf delays green-up and invites disease.

Aerate

Aerate during active growth so the plugs fill in quickly. Aerating dormant turf leaves bare patches that weeds invade.

Water

Watering needs scale with temperature and grass dormancy. A dormant warm-season lawn doesn't need irrigation; a stressed cool-season lawn in July might need 1.5 inches a week.

Mow

Mowing frequency follows growth rate, not the calendar. Spring and fall flushes need weekly cuts; summer slowdowns (warm season) or dormancy (winter) need none.

Weed Control

Pre-emergent works on soil temperature, not the calendar — typically applied when soil hits 55°F. Post-emergent works best on actively growing weeds, not dormant or stressed ones.

Fall Cleanup

Leaves left to mat over the lawn smother the crown and invite snow mold. The last mow needs to happen before the first hard freeze for cool-season lawns; warm-season lawns are dormant by then.